Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant area of northern London.
This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family utterly shocked.
“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.
In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.
The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.
It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.
Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary honour.
A tech enthusiast and IT consultant with over 8 years of experience in digital solutions and cybersecurity.